The Heart of Tanzania: Stories from a Safari Expert
Oct 9, 2025
I had the pleasure of speaking with Khalfan Mansour Hamdun, a Tanzanian safari guide with nearly 30 years’ experience in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. He shared wildlife stories, insider tips, and expert advice for an unforgettable safari.
byTrisha Pillay
Oct 9, 2025
16 min read
For four hours, I sat and listened to a man who made me see the Serengeti, the Ngorongoro Crater and other wonders in Tanzania through his eyes. The conversation would have kept going if Khalfan Mansour Hamdun hadn’t had to attend to a call from one of his employees, who was out with customers touring the beautiful wilderness of the East African plains. Khalfan works with Follow Alice on curated trips for Tanzania; it's like his playground. So, there was no better person to sit down and discuss why he thought travellers should come to see this natural wonder at least once in their lifetime.
Khalfan Mansour Hamdun demonstrates just how close he can safely get to the wildlife.
The way he described Tanzania’s most famous safari park gave me literal goosebumps. I loved how much passion Khalfan had when talking about a place he knows from the back of his hand. He has been navigating this landscape since 1996, welcoming tourists from all over the world as a local safari guide. The stories and tips he provided come from driving through the wilderness for more than three decades; this kind of information you wouldn't find on Google. So if you're interested in touring the Serengeti, the Ngorongoro Crater and visiting the Maasai tribe, here are a few things you should know before you pack your things. Let’s get to know him and his incredible journey through Tanzania’s wildlife, along with expert advice from a safari guide who has truly seen it all.
1. Khalfan, tell me about yourself.
I have been doing safaris in Tanzania since 1996. I grew up and still live in Moshi in Tanzania. Since then, I have been fortunate enough to work with more local safari guides, and now I just monitor that everything goes smoothly. If need be, I will still do guided tours depending on the interests of the client. I have had the pleasure of driving through this beautiful wilderness, and I got to explore everything first-hand.
Khalfan Mansour Hamdun posing with his safari vehicle.
One of my Safari tour guides told me about Follow Alice after meeting one of the founders, Daniel (Dez). He explained the amazing work Follow Alice does and why we should collaborate. While at first I needed to know more, I know Chris Kazi very well ,and he is also well known in our area. He does all the Mount Kilimanjaro trips, and started as a porter back in the 90s, and now he is the director of his own company and works with Follow Alice only.
I was happy about the transparency that the adventure boutique travel company has. They invited us to tell them how they should improve the experience for travellers, and they took our advice. Follow Alice made changes to accommodate our needs, we felt understood and seen. They also provided us with good schedules, earlier advances, and itineraries that made sense and did not overwork any of us. I love that Follow Alice only works with locals who know the country well. It's more of a freelance opportunity that provides us with a much-needed structure and gives back to our local economy.
Follow Alice's branded safari vehicle with a lion nearby in Tanzania.
This depends on the client's preferences. If they want to see all the big cats, you will be able to see them throughout the year, no matter what location in the park, whether it is the Serengeti or the Ngorongoro Crater. Mid-March to mid-May is the rainy season, which will make it difficult for tourists to see the animals, plus the tricky, muddy roads make it difficult to navigate through. These months, the weather can also be so unpredictable. If you just want to visit the Ngorongoro Crater, you can do so throughout the year, but the Serengeti is a different story due to the migration. This can be seen normally in the northern zone of Arushi.
It's also important to remember that it's very rare to see many animals because of the weather. During these months, there are very few tourists. If you don’t like crowds, then the low season is the best time to visit. There are fewer vehicles, and in the centre of the Serengeti, you will see herds of wildebeest and the migration of zebras. For those looking at their budget, then May to June is ideal as the prices are cheaper as most European countries only go on holiday from July and August. These months are high season, and costs will definitely pick up.
Khalfan Mansour Hamdun is standing next to a giraffe.
4. For you, what advice would you give travellers who can’t pick a month to come to the Serengeti?
For travellers who aren’t sure when to visit the Serengeti, I usually recommend the second week of February. This is the wildebeest calving season, taking place between the southern Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area in Ndutu. It’s an incredible time to see wildebeest with their newborn calves; you’ll even see them feeding and drinking milk.
The wildebeest migrate here because the grass during the rainy season is rich in minerals, perfect for the newborns. Of course, where there are calves, predators are never far behind. Hyenas and other scavengers are drawn to the easy meals, feeding on placentas or targeting vulnerable calves. Cheetahs and leopards are also on the lookout, so you get to witness the full circle of life in action. When you spot a big hole or open area in the grass, there’s often a lion or even a hippo nearby. A single pride can consist of up to 30 lions! On safari, we know how to approach them carefully, so you can observe safely without disturbing them.
During this season, the plains are a stunning sea of green grass, dotted with thousands of wildebeest. One of the best parts is that we can go off-road, taking you away from the crowds. You’ll have the freedom to explore the wilderness, watching lions, leopards, cheetahs, and their cubs in their natural habitat. This special window lasts from mid-February to mid-March, giving you a unique chance to experience the Serengeti with fewer tourists and more wildlife, no waiting, no crowds, just the raw beauty of Africa. We do shift itineraries when it's seasonal migrations and calving in the southern Serengeti.
A wildebeest herd crossing the Mara River during the Great Migration in Kenya and Tanzania is an unforgettable safari spectacle.
5. Is it not dangerous to drive open with so many predators roaming around freely?
As long as you stick to the park rules and listen to your safari tour guide, there is no need to worry. Our vehicles are built to explore the safari. We use closed safari vehicles, so the sides are protected, but the roof is open, allowing you to stand or lean up to take photos and videos of the wildlife safely. It's important to understand that we are just guests there and we need to respect the land. At 6 o’clock, we need to be out of the park. This is the law of the government, and we have to adhere to the speed limit there as well. We are trained guides; we know how to handle any situation if need be, but so far this has not been the case, and I have been driving here for almost 30 years now.
It can become risky when guests expect certain sightings, especially during the migration. For example, if we’re based at Ngakata Migration Camp, it can take over an hour just to reach a river crossing point, and we still need to return safely to camp before dark. Pushing for this simply isn’t realistic. We always want to give our travellers the very best experience, but never at the expense of safety for our guests or our guides. If a tour operator is promising you this, be prepared to be disappointed.
A couple by a lodge with a campfire in Tanzania while on safari.
6. How many nights would you suggest to explore the Serengeti?
All I can say is please don’t think you can explore the Serengeti in two days. It's impossible as the park spans around 30,000 km (12,000 sq miles) in total. Follow Alice has an option of five days, this trip takes you to the main safari attractions northern Tanzania has to offer. You will be able to visit the famous Serengeti, the Ngorongoro Crater, which is a must, and the beautiful Tarangire National Park. The game spotting is excellent, and includes the Big Five. Allow more days to explore; six days would also be the best option, as it allows time to take in your surroundings and to rest.
Lioness and cubs watching wildebeests crossing Ndutu Lake, Serengeti, Tanzania.
Ah, the Central Serengeti, this is really the heart of the park. What makes it so special is the big cats. Lions, leopards, and cheetahs are here all year round, thanks to the rivers and plains that keep the prey animals close. If you’ve dreamed of seeing the cat family in action, this is the place. Spending a night here gives you the best chance to catch those early-morning or late-afternoon sightings, when the predators are most active. From Central, it’s also easy for us to head north towards the Mara River or west towards the Grumeti river, depending on the season. That’s why most safaris stop here; it’s the perfect base in the Serengeti.
When you pack, remember you are coming into the bush. Out here, it can be very dusty, the sun is strong, and sometimes the rain can surprise you. One day it is hot, the next evening it is cold, so you must be ready for both. Bring light clothes in natural colours, nothing too bright, and always a warm jacket for the mornings and nights. A hat and sunglasses will help you with the sun, and sunscreen is very important. Please don’t bring only flip-flops. Around the camp, when you walk from your tent to the dining area, you need closed shoes. You never know, maybe there is a snake passing, a scorpion, a thorn, or a sharp stone on the path. Closed shoes will keep you safe. Also carry insect repellent, a refillable water bottle, and if you love photos, bring your camera with extra batteries and memory cards.
A group of tourists do a walking safari in Tanzania.
The Maasai people are one of the most famous tribes in East Africa, and for good reason. The Maasai are what we call the gatekeepers of the land. The Maasai live mainly in southern Kenya and northern Tanzania. They have lived here for centuries, on the plains stretching from Arusha all the way to the Ngorongoro Conservation area and into Kenya. This is their home. They are the only people allowed to live close to the national parks, in the conservation areas on the outskirts. No one else is permitted to stay there overnight.
The Maasai play a very important role in protecting the wildlife. They work closely with rangers, they know the land, and they are the first to notice if something is wrong. Their presence has reduced poaching; it’s very difficult for intruders to go unnoticed in these lands.
The Maasai are not only protectors of the animals; they are also guardians of culture. Their traditional dress, their jumping dances, and their cattle-herding lifestyle all give you a taste of Tanzania’s rich heritage. When you visit, you will see their manyattas, the traditional villages, and you may even meet warriors and women who are proud to share their stories. So when you hear the word Maasai, think not only of warriors and red shukas, but also of people who live in harmony with the land and help us preserve the Serengeti and Ngorongoro for years to come.
Khalfan is taking a selfie, with members of the Maasai tribe visible in the background.
10. What kind of food can I expect if we're going to be travelling so much?
Ah, don’t worry about that. We’ll make sure you’re well-fed and properly hydrated throughout the day. Many of our guests even tell us they’re so full they can hardly eat another bite! Sometimes, I advise guests to avoid bringing fish or chicken, as it can upset the stomach in the bush.
There’s always a good supply of food, along with tea, coffee, and even a small electrical heater for comfort back at your rooms. Keep in mind, at night it gets very dark. Around 10:00 pm, there is no power or electricity, just the natural darkness all around you. So don’t wander off at night. Make sure you have enough water and any goods you might need before settling in for the night.
Guide pouring mimosas in foreground with a hot air balloon in the background in Serengeti, Tanzania.
Firstly, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and Tanzania’s number one geopark. Here, you can experience almost every ecological system from tropical forests and woodlands to lakes, savannahs, and rivers across an area of about 45,000 square kilometres.
One of the highlights is the Ngorongoro Crater, the largest unbroken caldera in the world and the 8th Wonder of the World. From the rim, you’ll enjoy 360-degree views over the flat-bottom crater, which drops around 600–800 metres. Unlike many other calderas that are broken or flooded, this one remains intact. As we drive down from 1,500 metres above sea level, you’ll see montane forest, grasslands, and swamps, with wildlife moving freely below. What makes Ngorongoro truly unforgettable is the animals. Within this natural wildlife sanctuary, animals and plants live together in a self-contained sanctuary. When you get there, you will see elephants, buffalo, wildebeest, zebra, hippos, lions, cheetahs, hyenas, and the rare black rhino, as well as hundreds of bird species like flamingos and ostriches. While giraffes are absent from the crater floor, you’ll find different antelope species and even predators like leopards and servals, making it one of the best places in Africa to see such a wide variety of animals in one setting. It’s often called a “Garden of Eden”, a place where nature, history, and incredible beauty come together in one landscape.
Ngorongoro Crater in the wet season.
Many people don’t notice the small creatures, but you will also see ants, which are very important. In Ngorongoro Crater, different kinds of ants build their nests and mounds all over the grasslands. These mounds help the soil stay healthy, which makes the plants grow better. And when the plants grow well, animals like wildebeest and zebras have more food to eat. The geology is fascinating. The crater’s formations are closely connected to the famous Laetoli and Olduvai Gorge sites, where early human fossils have been discovered. Fossils found in this area show evidence of some of our earliest human ancestors and animals we still see today. Some of the gorge areas are the scenes seen from The Lion King where Mufasa dies.
As we head from the crater into the Serengeti, you’ll see massive wildebeest herds moving between 2,200 and 2,500 metres. The Serengeti itself is huge and has different zones; the western side has darker terrain, while the east is open savannah. Lakes are scattered throughout, giving water to the wildlife that calls this place home. This whole region is incredible, a mix of geology, wildlife, and history. You’re seeing Tanzania’s rich natural heritage in one amazing place, and it really is one of the most unforgettable landscapes in the world.
Acacia tree on a sunrise safari at the Serengeti National Park, Tanzania, a picture taken by Khalfan Mansour Hamdun.
What tips can you give a traveller wanting to go on a safari?
If you’re coming between mid-June and October, most of the wildlife will be in the northern part of the park, so be prepared for long drives between stops. I recommend planning for six to seven days to properly explore the Serengeti, which is very large, and trying to see everything in just three or four days is too rushed.
Please be kind and respectful to your safari guide. We know the park like the back of our hand, and following our guidance keeps everyone safe. Pressuring your driver to get to a specific spot can lead to reckless driving, which is dangerous. Trust the experts, like Follow Alice, to plan your itinerary and accommodation.
Time management is important. On your second day, for example, you may leave after 1pm, and it can take 6 to 7 hours to reach the next destination, so plan accordingly. Also, remember to adhere to park rules – your driver cannot drive fast, and safari driving stops after 6 pm.
Finally, keep in mind that there is no mobile network or internet connection in most parts of the park, so enjoy the moment and the wilderness without distractions.
Tanzania Safari Guide
Chatting with Khalfan Mansour Hamdun gave me such a wonderful insight into nearly three decades of safari experience in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. Hearing his stories and tips really shows just how magical a guided safari can be when you’re with someone who knows the parks inside out. At Follow Alice, we love working with local companies to support the community and give back to Tanzania’s economy, while also giving our guests the full, authentic experience. Ready to see it for yourself? Let us help you plan your safari adventure and explore the wildlife through the eyes of true experts.
