Kay Marie's journey to Kilimanjaro

“The mountain! The mountain! The clouds have lifted! You can see Kilimanjaro!”

Within minutes, the camp came to life as we jumped out of our tents in pajamas, bare feet and cameras, tripping over ourselves and each other as we scurried around, looking for the best shot. There it was, a snow-sparkling jewel floating in the dawn light. We gazed out, mesmerized, from our camp at Amboseli Preserve, just north of the Tanzanian border. It was an awe-inspiring ending to our safari in Kenya and the beginning of a yearning in my heart to someday stand on top of this magnificent, mysterious mountain.

It took two more trips to Africa, before my fourth visit (dare I say how many years later?!) brought me to the foot of Kilimanjaro and the realization of what seemed like a life-long dream. Planning actually started 9 months earlier when a friend and colleague told me that she was going and wondered if I wanted to join her. It didn’t take long to acknowledge that I might never do it on my own and this sounded like the kick in the pants I needed to stop dreaming and start moving! My friend, Molly, had done considerable research and found Follow Alice, the tour company we joined and which turned out to be the perfect choice.

How to prepare for this grand – maybe crazy? – adventure? Staying in shape through the years after that first Kilimanjaro revelation has been a constant and challenging effort. Surprise – age happens! Our trip was scheduled for late September which meant training through the summer – not an ideal time in the desert of Phoenix, Arizona where I live. Nevertheless, I stepped up my running, hiking and time working out on my home “step machine” as best I could and hoped for the best.

Follow Alice met me at Arusha airport and drove me to the Lindrin Lodge in Moshi. What an unexpected – and beautiful – oasis! Our room, the service, food and staff all made it seem like a 5-star hotel. We met with Follow Alice staff the following evening and discussed plans for our departure the next day.

The whole gang!

Lift off! We packed into the van with some of our future camp staff and headed toward our starting point for the Lemosho route at the Londorossi Gate. Yes, I was excited, but also more than a little apprehensive. Would my training be enough? Would I really make it to the top? Optimism and confidence seemed like a better guarantor of success than fear and soon I was enjoying the beautiful and diverse scenery along the way.

There have been countless, detailed accounts of Kilimanjaro climbs, including the Lemosho route. What stands out in my mind that I’d like to convey here, are some of the unexpected treasures I encountered during my Kilimanjaro experience – treasures that will be with me always.

On the climb itself, passing through the rainforest on the first day was a special treat. With a background in zoology, seeing – and hearing – Colobus monkeys was amazing. Looking like giant arboreal skunks, their beautiful black coats with white stripes on the side, ending in a long white tail are easily recognizable, but they can be fairly elusive (and are endangered). Later, tucked cozily in our tents, their grunting sounds seemed to come from all sides – our own surround-sound symphony! And how close were the scratching sounds made by the mongooses, who are primarily nocturnal?

As the climb progressed, we passed through several biomes – bushland, rainforest, moorland, alpine desert and of course arctic at the very top. Although I knew these levels existed, they seemed to occur unexpectedly as we trod along. It was fascinating to see and experience these transitions. One area that especially stood out was on the third day when we hiked to a very chilly point called Lava Tower at 4,630 m (15,190 feet for you gringos) where we had delicious box lunches – with our warm gloves on! Coming down, we passed some unusual vegetation along a small, flowing stream. This very steep valley was formed as a result of ancient volcanic activity. Amazing.

And finally – the arctic biome. No words can convey the unexpected beauty and grandeur at the top of Kilimanjaro. Nothing could have prepared me for this breathtaking view from the top of the world – looking down at sheets of blue-white ice on the mountainsides set against a perfectly deep blue sky. Sadly, the snow is diminishing with each passing year as it slowly melts away.

The Follow Alice camp staff were another unexpected treasure of my Kilimanjaro journey. One reason we chose Follow Alice was because they incorporate local people into their programs. When I travel, I want to experience the cultural diversity of the country I visit, in addition to appreciating the geography and scenery. Follow Alice was a natural and excellent choice for me.

Our leaders, Tony and his assistant Justice, gained my confidence from the outset. Not only are they trained for leadership on the mountain, but their years of experience and accumulated knowledge made them a wealth of information. As we hiked along, Tony told me that the mountain had been “calling” him for over 20 years and that he had summited 86 times! At camp every evening after dinner, Tony asked us how we were feeling about the day and explained what the next day would be like. He checked our oxygen levels to be sure no one was having any issues with altitude. And, he entertained us with stories about some of the groups he had led. Beyond their considerable knowledge and experience, though, it was their simple kindness that I appreciated most, listening attentively to any concerns and patiently answering questions.

Each morning we were awakened by William, waiter extraordinaire! He served us coffee and tea at our tent door. What luxury! And then a few minutes later, he returned with bowls of warm water for “washy washy” time. No, this wasn’t baby talk but apparently a commonly used phrase for cleaning up. It was William who served us food at mealtimes, making sure we had all the accoutrements we wanted or needed. All of his duties were performed with endless energy and a huge smile.

The food was another unexpected – and much appreciated – surprise. Our evening meals were usually 3 courses and included soup, followed by a main course of meat and vegetables and plenty of fresh fruit. How did they do it? We asked if we could visit the mess tent and watch the chef for a few minutes. We were amazed to learn that everything was done on only 2 burners. Of course these burners, along with fuel, had to be carried up the mountain from one camp to the next. In addition to food supplies, the camp staff carried everything else – tents, duffle bags, chemical toilet and trash – packed onto their backs and even on top of their heads! In the morning, they waited until we had eaten breakfast, filled our water containers, strapped on our daypacks and hit the trail before they quickly disassembled the camp. After a while, they would come trotting by us on the trail, fully loaded, racing on ahead to the next camp. By the time we arrived, hours later, camp was all set up, waiting for us to relax and enjoy our “happy hour” of popcorn and fresh fruit! Unbelievable!

It was a long, difficult climb to the top, starting at midnight with head lamps and snow gear. I confess to getting very discouraged a couple of times when it seemed like I kept needing to stop. It was rockier than I anticipated. I guess sometimes we believe what we want to believe; it was not the “trail” of my imaginings! I had my own personal cheerleaders, though. Justice and a porter named Baraka, stuck by my side the whole way. If I stumbled, one of them would grab my elbow. By the time we reached Stella Point, the sun had come up and there was still another hour and a half to go! When we finally reached the top, it was sunny and very windy. I burst into tears – tears of joy, tears of wonder and tears of pride. A dream that began many years ago – to climb Kilimanjaro – had finally been realized. I never really expected it to happen or that I could actually succeed. I still never miss an opportunity to brag about it. But the greatest, unexpected treasure of my journey to Kilimanjaro has been and continues to be, my sense of pride and accomplishment and belief in myself. It was truly a life-changing experience.

Victory photo with Justice and Baraka

On the way to the airport on my last day in Tanzania, the sun was getting low and cast a pink glow on the landscape. I looked out the window of the van at the towering, majestic peak floating above the clouds and impulsively asked the driver to stop. As I gazed at what was once a mysterious mountain, my eyes filled with tears yet again. No longer a mystery, this mountain was my friend – a glorious reminder that with effort, fears can be overcome and dreams can come true.